Let's talk about some general tips related to hanging drywall
Scrap pieces
It is the tendency of many homeowners to try to use up as much of the board as possible. That's totally understandable with the cost of the material. In addition, who doesn't try to save money anywhere they can? Unfortunately, using up smaller pieces left over from cuts is not saving money! I recall a job estimate for finishing we were called on where the walls resembled a giant jigsaw puzzle. The homeowners proudly announced they had no scrap left over. I'm sure they didn't since the scrap was all nailed to the walls!
It's called scrap for a reason, folks. With drywall the idea is to eliminate seams wherever possible. This not only improves the strength of the walls but it also save a ton of money on the finishing materials. Not to mention the time and/or money saved on the labor involved in finishing. The best recommendation we could make to those homeowners was to call a professional in the veneer plastering business. Even then they were looking at a higher cost than necessary. Whether veneer plaster or drywall every seam must be taped!
**tip**
The primary ingredients in drywall are gypsum and paper. It's an excellent addition to garden soil! Just remember the larger the piece the longer it will take to decompose.
Nails, screws & blisters
Earlier I mentioned the need for the right hammer. The perfect dimple left by just the right hit with a drywall hammer allows just enough depth to fill with joint compound during finishing. Even a professional can leave a nail too shallow or hit it just a little too hard and break the paper. An additional tap with the hammer can solve the problem of too shallow. If you have a hit (or a miss) that has broken the paper surface of the board tape it. Yes, tape it just as if you were taping a seam. A board with more severe damage needs all the loose material removed first. A miss can be gently tapped with the corner of the taping knife handle to create a slight indentation or dimple. Remember the most important thing here is to keep blemishes, nails, screws, etc just below the surface to allow for optimum finishing.
The right depth for screws is all about the screw gun. The adjustable nose of a drywall screw gun is set for the perfect depth; just dimpled enough to be below the surface of the board without breaking the paper. Again, even professionals have less than perfect screws. A quick tweak with a screwdriver can take it in the hair more that it needs. You'll find it handy to carry a screwdriver with you during the first coat if you used screws to attach the board. The first coat of finishing is where you will take care of all the tweaks to make the final coats go smoothly.
Blisters are caused by many things. A splinter on a stud or a nail in a stud that wasn't pounded in deep enough are just two examples. It happens and it's not a cause for worry. However, is is something that will need taken care of. See above regarding removing loose material and taping. If you miss taking care of a blister in the board prior to finishing it will soon rear its ugly little head after you begin to apply the joint compound. An air pocket will be created and will be visible through the mud. This will also happen if you didn't get enough mud behind the tape.
The cure for this is to cut it out. Take a utility knife and cut out the loose paper or tape, apply some joint compound, place a piece of tape over it large enough to cover the hole or seam and wipe it clean. Applying too much pressure during wiping it can cause too much mud to be removed. The only cure for that is practice!
Showing posts with label drywall hanging. Show all posts
Showing posts with label drywall hanging. Show all posts
Friday, September 7, 2012
Saturday, August 11, 2012
The Dreaded Angle
Welcome dear readers to the DIY Drywall blog. Unfortunately, this blog fell through the cracks for a time but here I am to pick it up again. Thanks for stopping by!
Angle cuts in drywall are some of the most difficult cuts, even for professionals. Once again, measure twice and cut once is the best rule of thumb. A chalk box is an essential tool for making angled cuts. Once your measurements are marked out on the board striking a line with the chalk-covered string gives you a perfect line to follow. Just remember the line is only as good as your measurements!
In most drywall measurements a little play is left on purpose. For angle cuts a close measurement is needed. It doesn't take much to throw the entire angle off especially on a long cut. Making an angled cut can even be helpful in remodeling jobs where the corners are severely out of square. I've seen corners be as much as one inch out in 4 feet! The most common places angle cuts are used are stairwells.
*tip*
Do make sure the board you are about to place your measurements on is facing the same way as the wall or ceiling you are looking at. Many a board has been turned into a scrap piece from trying to invert measurements.
Using the longest level you have available strike a level line across the studs four feet up from the floor to use as a guide. Run your tape measure along that line to get the most accurate reading. A measurement at floor level (or ceiling level if you starting at the top) and then a reading four feet up (or down) gives you the measurements for the angle. Strike a chalk line and carefully make your cut with a sharp utility knife.
It's important to dry-fit the piece before installing. If any trimming needs done you don't want to have glue all over the board.
Ceilings often have angle cuts, too. Use the same general principles whether you're on a wall or a ceiling.
Angle cuts in drywall are some of the most difficult cuts, even for professionals. Once again, measure twice and cut once is the best rule of thumb. A chalk box is an essential tool for making angled cuts. Once your measurements are marked out on the board striking a line with the chalk-covered string gives you a perfect line to follow. Just remember the line is only as good as your measurements!
In most drywall measurements a little play is left on purpose. For angle cuts a close measurement is needed. It doesn't take much to throw the entire angle off especially on a long cut. Making an angled cut can even be helpful in remodeling jobs where the corners are severely out of square. I've seen corners be as much as one inch out in 4 feet! The most common places angle cuts are used are stairwells.
*tip*
Do make sure the board you are about to place your measurements on is facing the same way as the wall or ceiling you are looking at. Many a board has been turned into a scrap piece from trying to invert measurements.
Using the longest level you have available strike a level line across the studs four feet up from the floor to use as a guide. Run your tape measure along that line to get the most accurate reading. A measurement at floor level (or ceiling level if you starting at the top) and then a reading four feet up (or down) gives you the measurements for the angle. Strike a chalk line and carefully make your cut with a sharp utility knife.
It's important to dry-fit the piece before installing. If any trimming needs done you don't want to have glue all over the board.
Ceilings often have angle cuts, too. Use the same general principles whether you're on a wall or a ceiling.
Thursday, January 28, 2010
What is a Staggered Joint?
A staggered joint is important for wall strength and for optimum finishing. In drywall "joint" refers to the short end of the board. Professionals attempt to eliminate joints whenever possible. They are harder to finish, use more materials and take more time.
This is the reason commercial drywall contractors use the longest board possible. If the majority of the rooms in a house measure between 11' and 12' a contractor will use 4' x 12' board thus eliminating joints completely.
Staggering a joint simply means ending parallel sheets on a different ceiling joist or wall stud. Masonry walls use the same principle. If all the joints ended at the same place the wall would crack. In masonry work the wall would collapse.
When you can't eliminate joints hang the first sheet on the ceiling or wall using the longest length possible. This helps to ensure you start out square. On the next parallel sheet your best option is to start from the other end of the room once again using the longest sheet possible.
A perfectly square house with perfectly square rooms is a rarity indeed. Following the contour of the walls will lead you astray and make the rest of the job all that much harder. You may need to leave a bit of a gap along the wall to keep your first board as straight as possible. Remember you have a full half inch of drywall that will take up the slack.
Use the last joist or stud the board lands on as your guide. The chances are good it is fairly straight. At least, the odds are better the joist is straight, rather than the odds of the corner being perfectly square. The end of the board needs to be as close as possible to dead center on the joist so you have room to nail, plus have an equal distance to start the next sheet.
Make sure you use the factory end where the next sheet will join. The end you have to cut should be nearest the wall. Always keep factory edges together when possible.
Circles
If any of your electrical outlet boxes are circular you will obviously need to cut out circles in your drywall. A drywall circle cutter is a relatively inexpensive tool. It is easily adjustable to the size you need. You only need two measurements; X marks the spot you sink the point in to. The cutter wheel scores the board and you then use a keyhole saw to complete the cut.
Another option is a drywall router. This approximately $100 tool won't likely be a sound investment unless you intend on doing a significant amount of drywall. Once again, two measurements are needed. Only in this case you don't precut the board.
This is the professional choice for speed and accuracy. An out-of-square corner won't throw your measurement off and it is an extremely fast way to make cut outs. Once you're good at it, it's faster, anyway. One of the most common rookie mistakes is getting wild with the router. Slow and steady is the rule until you're comfortable with it.
Mark the spot of the rough center of the box. After the board is in place (without being pressed firmly against the studs!), turn on the router, plunge the router bit in at the spot and run it until you hit the inner box edge. Back off just enough to slip the bit out of the inside and move to the outside. Use the box itself as the template for the cut.
CAUTION - before you get to this point make sure the electric wires are pushed deep into the box!
Additional tips- An old fashioned protractor can be used to draw a circle on the board. If you're only making one or two circle cuts this may be the best choice.
Remember this - if you cut the hole small you can always trim a little more to get an accurate fit. Heard the old joke; "Darn! I cut it twice and it's still too small!"? Taking care on the hanging will make life so very much easier when it comes to the finishing.
I'll save angles for the next post. We have a lot to cover.
Dear readers, please feel free to post questions at any time.
This is the reason commercial drywall contractors use the longest board possible. If the majority of the rooms in a house measure between 11' and 12' a contractor will use 4' x 12' board thus eliminating joints completely.
Staggering a joint simply means ending parallel sheets on a different ceiling joist or wall stud. Masonry walls use the same principle. If all the joints ended at the same place the wall would crack. In masonry work the wall would collapse.
When you can't eliminate joints hang the first sheet on the ceiling or wall using the longest length possible. This helps to ensure you start out square. On the next parallel sheet your best option is to start from the other end of the room once again using the longest sheet possible.
A perfectly square house with perfectly square rooms is a rarity indeed. Following the contour of the walls will lead you astray and make the rest of the job all that much harder. You may need to leave a bit of a gap along the wall to keep your first board as straight as possible. Remember you have a full half inch of drywall that will take up the slack.
Use the last joist or stud the board lands on as your guide. The chances are good it is fairly straight. At least, the odds are better the joist is straight, rather than the odds of the corner being perfectly square. The end of the board needs to be as close as possible to dead center on the joist so you have room to nail, plus have an equal distance to start the next sheet.
Make sure you use the factory end where the next sheet will join. The end you have to cut should be nearest the wall. Always keep factory edges together when possible.
Circles
If any of your electrical outlet boxes are circular you will obviously need to cut out circles in your drywall. A drywall circle cutter is a relatively inexpensive tool. It is easily adjustable to the size you need. You only need two measurements; X marks the spot you sink the point in to. The cutter wheel scores the board and you then use a keyhole saw to complete the cut.
Another option is a drywall router. This approximately $100 tool won't likely be a sound investment unless you intend on doing a significant amount of drywall. Once again, two measurements are needed. Only in this case you don't precut the board.
This is the professional choice for speed and accuracy. An out-of-square corner won't throw your measurement off and it is an extremely fast way to make cut outs. Once you're good at it, it's faster, anyway. One of the most common rookie mistakes is getting wild with the router. Slow and steady is the rule until you're comfortable with it.
Mark the spot of the rough center of the box. After the board is in place (without being pressed firmly against the studs!), turn on the router, plunge the router bit in at the spot and run it until you hit the inner box edge. Back off just enough to slip the bit out of the inside and move to the outside. Use the box itself as the template for the cut.
CAUTION - before you get to this point make sure the electric wires are pushed deep into the box!
Additional tips- An old fashioned protractor can be used to draw a circle on the board. If you're only making one or two circle cuts this may be the best choice.
Remember this - if you cut the hole small you can always trim a little more to get an accurate fit. Heard the old joke; "Darn! I cut it twice and it's still too small!"? Taking care on the hanging will make life so very much easier when it comes to the finishing.
I'll save angles for the next post. We have a lot to cover.
Dear readers, please feel free to post questions at any time.
Thursday, October 22, 2009
Job Preparation
The board has been delivered and you're ready to go... at least, you think you are. Lets go over the basics of final site prep. If this is an addition (or perhaps you've been really ambitious and this is an entire new construction project), there shouldn't be much to prepare.
Your site should be as free of clutter as possible with broom swept floors. It doesn't take much to make you turn an ankle or stumble when you're looking up over your head!
Give your walls and ceilings the once over. Ensure any protruding nails are removed. Many times nails may be used to hang temporary lights, tools and the like during construction. You don't want to find them by having them come through a new sheet of drywall. A
ll insulation and vapor barriers should be in place. Check for electrical boxes accidentally covered by insulation. This is a common occurrence. It's much easier to uncover them now than to have to dig through new drywall once you see an unsightly lump in your new wall.
If your project is a remodeling job the procedures are much the same. Just take extra care to ensure all old materials have been completely removed, everything is in alignment, and all the nails have been removed from the previous wall covering installation. There are many times in an old house that you will need to add material of various sizes to one wall stud or ceiling joist to bring into level with the others.
Old school plasterers were noted for 'floating' corners with brown coat. Often, an entire new corner must be built to accommodate new board; albeit paneling, drywall, hardkote or what have you.
Having a checklist is the best way to go. We're human and mistakes happen to the best of us. How about wires? Wood backing in any areas you plan on hanging heavy mirrors and the like? Telephone, cable and speaker wires? Now is the time to add and hide those things if you haven't done so already.
Refer back to your material and tool list. Have you remembered everything? Do you have appropriate extension cords for power tools, panel adhesive, screws and/or nails?
Everybody has an opinion. From the customer service personnel at the lumberyard or home center, to Bob Vila, and your second cousin who just finished an addition of his own. Trust me on this - that's why you're here reading this isn't it? Don't spare on the panel adhesive and do spare on the fasteners.
Everyone will tell you not to use drywall nails but to use screws instead. They aren't wrong but they aren't right either. I only use nails on the perimeter of the board and screws out in the field. Unless you're a professional drywall hanger, the relative ease of using nails to tack the board into place is the way to go. Even the majority of professionals do this when working on wood studs.
Okay, now we're certain we're ready to go, right? Line up your help and schedule your weekend or vacation time. Next up - hanging board!
Your site should be as free of clutter as possible with broom swept floors. It doesn't take much to make you turn an ankle or stumble when you're looking up over your head!
Give your walls and ceilings the once over. Ensure any protruding nails are removed. Many times nails may be used to hang temporary lights, tools and the like during construction. You don't want to find them by having them come through a new sheet of drywall. A
ll insulation and vapor barriers should be in place. Check for electrical boxes accidentally covered by insulation. This is a common occurrence. It's much easier to uncover them now than to have to dig through new drywall once you see an unsightly lump in your new wall.
If your project is a remodeling job the procedures are much the same. Just take extra care to ensure all old materials have been completely removed, everything is in alignment, and all the nails have been removed from the previous wall covering installation. There are many times in an old house that you will need to add material of various sizes to one wall stud or ceiling joist to bring into level with the others.
Old school plasterers were noted for 'floating' corners with brown coat. Often, an entire new corner must be built to accommodate new board; albeit paneling, drywall, hardkote or what have you.
Having a checklist is the best way to go. We're human and mistakes happen to the best of us. How about wires? Wood backing in any areas you plan on hanging heavy mirrors and the like? Telephone, cable and speaker wires? Now is the time to add and hide those things if you haven't done so already.
Refer back to your material and tool list. Have you remembered everything? Do you have appropriate extension cords for power tools, panel adhesive, screws and/or nails?
Everybody has an opinion. From the customer service personnel at the lumberyard or home center, to Bob Vila, and your second cousin who just finished an addition of his own. Trust me on this - that's why you're here reading this isn't it? Don't spare on the panel adhesive and do spare on the fasteners.
Everyone will tell you not to use drywall nails but to use screws instead. They aren't wrong but they aren't right either. I only use nails on the perimeter of the board and screws out in the field. Unless you're a professional drywall hanger, the relative ease of using nails to tack the board into place is the way to go. Even the majority of professionals do this when working on wood studs.
Okay, now we're certain we're ready to go, right? Line up your help and schedule your weekend or vacation time. Next up - hanging board!
Wednesday, July 8, 2009
Getting Started
The hardest part of any project, for most people, is getting started. There are a few simple rules for any type of project, from creating a blog, to doing your own drywall.
1) Create a plan outline -
You can do this on paper, or in your head, whatever works best for you. I do recommend putting it down on paper. Even professionals work from lists and drawings! Get a idea of what you want to accomplish, and where you need to start. In home remodeling, the starting point often needs to be the demolition of the existing wall. Stay tuned to this site for future tips on demolition, and job preparation.
2) Assess your skills and tools -
Be realistic in your assessment! If you have never held a hammer in your hand, you're probably biting off more than you can chew. If you're handy around the house, you can do drywall and achieve professional results. The tools you will need are fairly basic for hanging drywall. The finishing tools are more specialized, but they won't cost you an arm and a leg, unless you buy every possible tool that's out there. That isn't feasible for one room, or some repair work. Future articles will get more in depth with tool lists and options.
3) Budgeting -
You will need to budget your money, and your time. If you work an average of 60 hours per week, you're only option may be to do your drywall project during a vacation. Only you can make that decision. Professional drywall hangers can hang 200 4' x 12' sheets of board, or more, in a single day in new construction work. That's not going to happen on a remodeling job, and it's not going to happen on your first project. In order to create your financial budget, you will first need a material list. Don't forget to include any tools you need to purchase in your budget amount.
4) Scheduling -
Form an estimate of your start date and the completion of each stage of your DIY project. This will be invaluable when it comes to material purchase and delivery. Make sure to leave a little flexibility in your schedule to allow for inclement weather. Once the materials are in the building, the weather has little affect. (Humidity will play a big part in the time between finish coats!) However; delivery can't be accomplished in anything more than a drizzle. Drywall is not accepting of water.
Once you have your plans in place, you're ready to tackle your DIY drywall project. Stay tuned for more tips and tricks on how to do drywall and get professional results!
1) Create a plan outline -
You can do this on paper, or in your head, whatever works best for you. I do recommend putting it down on paper. Even professionals work from lists and drawings! Get a idea of what you want to accomplish, and where you need to start. In home remodeling, the starting point often needs to be the demolition of the existing wall. Stay tuned to this site for future tips on demolition, and job preparation.
2) Assess your skills and tools -
Be realistic in your assessment! If you have never held a hammer in your hand, you're probably biting off more than you can chew. If you're handy around the house, you can do drywall and achieve professional results. The tools you will need are fairly basic for hanging drywall. The finishing tools are more specialized, but they won't cost you an arm and a leg, unless you buy every possible tool that's out there. That isn't feasible for one room, or some repair work. Future articles will get more in depth with tool lists and options.
3) Budgeting -
You will need to budget your money, and your time. If you work an average of 60 hours per week, you're only option may be to do your drywall project during a vacation. Only you can make that decision. Professional drywall hangers can hang 200 4' x 12' sheets of board, or more, in a single day in new construction work. That's not going to happen on a remodeling job, and it's not going to happen on your first project. In order to create your financial budget, you will first need a material list. Don't forget to include any tools you need to purchase in your budget amount.
4) Scheduling -
Form an estimate of your start date and the completion of each stage of your DIY project. This will be invaluable when it comes to material purchase and delivery. Make sure to leave a little flexibility in your schedule to allow for inclement weather. Once the materials are in the building, the weather has little affect. (Humidity will play a big part in the time between finish coats!) However; delivery can't be accomplished in anything more than a drizzle. Drywall is not accepting of water.
Once you have your plans in place, you're ready to tackle your DIY drywall project. Stay tuned for more tips and tricks on how to do drywall and get professional results!
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