Let's talk about some general tips related to hanging drywall
Scrap pieces
It is the tendency of many homeowners to try to use up as much of the board as possible. That's totally understandable with the cost of the material. In addition, who doesn't try to save money anywhere they can? Unfortunately, using up smaller pieces left over from cuts is not saving money! I recall a job estimate for finishing we were called on where the walls resembled a giant jigsaw puzzle. The homeowners proudly announced they had no scrap left over. I'm sure they didn't since the scrap was all nailed to the walls!
It's called scrap for a reason, folks. With drywall the idea is to eliminate seams wherever possible. This not only improves the strength of the walls but it also save a ton of money on the finishing materials. Not to mention the time and/or money saved on the labor involved in finishing. The best recommendation we could make to those homeowners was to call a professional in the veneer plastering business. Even then they were looking at a higher cost than necessary. Whether veneer plaster or drywall every seam must be taped!
**tip**
The primary ingredients in drywall are gypsum and paper. It's an excellent addition to garden soil! Just remember the larger the piece the longer it will take to decompose.
Nails, screws & blisters
Earlier I mentioned the need for the right hammer. The perfect dimple left by just the right hit with a drywall hammer allows just enough depth to fill with joint compound during finishing. Even a professional can leave a nail too shallow or hit it just a little too hard and break the paper. An additional tap with the hammer can solve the problem of too shallow. If you have a hit (or a miss) that has broken the paper surface of the board tape it. Yes, tape it just as if you were taping a seam. A board with more severe damage needs all the loose material removed first. A miss can be gently tapped with the corner of the taping knife handle to create a slight indentation or dimple. Remember the most important thing here is to keep blemishes, nails, screws, etc just below the surface to allow for optimum finishing.
The right depth for screws is all about the screw gun. The adjustable nose of a drywall screw gun is set for the perfect depth; just dimpled enough to be below the surface of the board without breaking the paper. Again, even professionals have less than perfect screws. A quick tweak with a screwdriver can take it in the hair more that it needs. You'll find it handy to carry a screwdriver with you during the first coat if you used screws to attach the board. The first coat of finishing is where you will take care of all the tweaks to make the final coats go smoothly.
Blisters are caused by many things. A splinter on a stud or a nail in a stud that wasn't pounded in deep enough are just two examples. It happens and it's not a cause for worry. However, is is something that will need taken care of. See above regarding removing loose material and taping. If you miss taking care of a blister in the board prior to finishing it will soon rear its ugly little head after you begin to apply the joint compound. An air pocket will be created and will be visible through the mud. This will also happen if you didn't get enough mud behind the tape.
The cure for this is to cut it out. Take a utility knife and cut out the loose paper or tape, apply some joint compound, place a piece of tape over it large enough to cover the hole or seam and wipe it clean. Applying too much pressure during wiping it can cause too much mud to be removed. The only cure for that is practice!
Showing posts with label installing drywall. Show all posts
Showing posts with label installing drywall. Show all posts
Friday, September 7, 2012
Saturday, August 11, 2012
The Dreaded Angle
Welcome dear readers to the DIY Drywall blog. Unfortunately, this blog fell through the cracks for a time but here I am to pick it up again. Thanks for stopping by!
Angle cuts in drywall are some of the most difficult cuts, even for professionals. Once again, measure twice and cut once is the best rule of thumb. A chalk box is an essential tool for making angled cuts. Once your measurements are marked out on the board striking a line with the chalk-covered string gives you a perfect line to follow. Just remember the line is only as good as your measurements!
In most drywall measurements a little play is left on purpose. For angle cuts a close measurement is needed. It doesn't take much to throw the entire angle off especially on a long cut. Making an angled cut can even be helpful in remodeling jobs where the corners are severely out of square. I've seen corners be as much as one inch out in 4 feet! The most common places angle cuts are used are stairwells.
*tip*
Do make sure the board you are about to place your measurements on is facing the same way as the wall or ceiling you are looking at. Many a board has been turned into a scrap piece from trying to invert measurements.
Using the longest level you have available strike a level line across the studs four feet up from the floor to use as a guide. Run your tape measure along that line to get the most accurate reading. A measurement at floor level (or ceiling level if you starting at the top) and then a reading four feet up (or down) gives you the measurements for the angle. Strike a chalk line and carefully make your cut with a sharp utility knife.
It's important to dry-fit the piece before installing. If any trimming needs done you don't want to have glue all over the board.
Ceilings often have angle cuts, too. Use the same general principles whether you're on a wall or a ceiling.
Angle cuts in drywall are some of the most difficult cuts, even for professionals. Once again, measure twice and cut once is the best rule of thumb. A chalk box is an essential tool for making angled cuts. Once your measurements are marked out on the board striking a line with the chalk-covered string gives you a perfect line to follow. Just remember the line is only as good as your measurements!
In most drywall measurements a little play is left on purpose. For angle cuts a close measurement is needed. It doesn't take much to throw the entire angle off especially on a long cut. Making an angled cut can even be helpful in remodeling jobs where the corners are severely out of square. I've seen corners be as much as one inch out in 4 feet! The most common places angle cuts are used are stairwells.
*tip*
Do make sure the board you are about to place your measurements on is facing the same way as the wall or ceiling you are looking at. Many a board has been turned into a scrap piece from trying to invert measurements.
Using the longest level you have available strike a level line across the studs four feet up from the floor to use as a guide. Run your tape measure along that line to get the most accurate reading. A measurement at floor level (or ceiling level if you starting at the top) and then a reading four feet up (or down) gives you the measurements for the angle. Strike a chalk line and carefully make your cut with a sharp utility knife.
It's important to dry-fit the piece before installing. If any trimming needs done you don't want to have glue all over the board.
Ceilings often have angle cuts, too. Use the same general principles whether you're on a wall or a ceiling.
Thursday, November 5, 2009
Hanging Drywall
The tricks of the trade for hanging drywall are basic. They consist of working with the material (vs fighting with it), the right tools and patience. If you're shaking your head right now and muttering "I don't have patience!", then stop reading immediately and go find yourself a contractor. DYI drywall is no place for you.
This job will take longer, cost more and be more likely to have less than optimum results if you're short-tempered and try to manhandle the board. Worse yet - someone is more likely to get hurt trying to help you.
Ceiling height
The height of the ceiling determines a lot. If your job has 8' ceilings, hang the board on the ceiling first. If it's above 8', you'll want to start on the wall first. Take note here: I don't mean 8' 1". On a quality new construction job the walls are 8' 1". This allows for 1/2" drywall on the ceiling and 1/2" of finish flooring and gives the end result of an 8' ceiling. We'll deal with odd heights in a later post.
Set yourself up with a workable (and safe!) mini-scaffolding system. For most people that's in the area of 18" to 24" high. Please don't be overly creative. A rolling platform of just the right height will not, I repeat will not make your life easier.
Why not? I'll tell you why not - because the second you push or reach slightly off center of your balance point, the rolling platform will shoot out from underneath you and your partner. The two of you will find yourselves on the floor with a sheet of drywall literally broken over your heads.
Getting started
Starting on an exterior corner is usually preferable. They tend to be the most square. Each room layout is different so make your own call on where to start. Try to use as close to full sheets as possible. It sometimes works out that the best move you can make is to move off the wall 2' to 4' and hang a full 8' sheet from stud center to stud center.
Afterward, add the smaller piece in. Although it is possible to just start out with a smaller piece it can throw off the entire ceiling if it isn't perfect. Hanging a full sheet covers more area and sets the tone for the rest of the sheets to follow. Don't try this with less then 3 people. Someone has to be able to check each end to see if it's centered on the stud while two people are holding the sheet like Atlas holding the globe. This is a moot point if you're using a panel jack, of course.
Take two measurements if you are working on old house, or you suspect the room is out-of-square. Do not try to stay tight!!! This is nothing like a 2X4 that you can beat into place with a framing hammer if it's a tad tight. If you cut drywall too tight it will have to be shaved, and shaved, and shaved... until it fits right. I always allowed for a full quarter inch of play. Remember you are coming up the wall with 1/2".
Ideally, one person cuts the board while the other is preparing the work area. Make marks on the walls at the end of every ceiling joist and glue up. If you're worried about your 'eye' following the line of the stud once it's covered with the board chalk lines can be used. Just bear in mind that the lines are likely to be off, i.e use a light touch with the hammer until you find it.
Apply panel adhesive to every stud this sheet is about to cover except the ends. Aim for the center third of the area the sheet will cover and apply a healthy bead.
Providing there were no wall offsets to deal with and no electrical boxes to cut out the sheet itself is a simple straight cut using the T-square. Cutting board is easiest when it is leaning against a wall (slight lean only). Secure the bottom of the square with a toe and using a fresh utility blade score along the square. Now stand the board upright and snap the cut piece back and score the other side. Snap back towards the original position.
A word of caution here - score deeply enough even if it takes running the knife more than once. The smaller the piece being cut off, the more likely it is to break unevenly instead at the score point. In some cases the best solution is to score both sides before the snap.
Click here for further reading on installing drywall.
Next up - staggering joints, circles and angles.
Questions? Post in the comment area.
This job will take longer, cost more and be more likely to have less than optimum results if you're short-tempered and try to manhandle the board. Worse yet - someone is more likely to get hurt trying to help you.
Ceiling height
The height of the ceiling determines a lot. If your job has 8' ceilings, hang the board on the ceiling first. If it's above 8', you'll want to start on the wall first. Take note here: I don't mean 8' 1". On a quality new construction job the walls are 8' 1". This allows for 1/2" drywall on the ceiling and 1/2" of finish flooring and gives the end result of an 8' ceiling. We'll deal with odd heights in a later post.
Set yourself up with a workable (and safe!) mini-scaffolding system. For most people that's in the area of 18" to 24" high. Please don't be overly creative. A rolling platform of just the right height will not, I repeat will not make your life easier.
Why not? I'll tell you why not - because the second you push or reach slightly off center of your balance point, the rolling platform will shoot out from underneath you and your partner. The two of you will find yourselves on the floor with a sheet of drywall literally broken over your heads.
Getting started
Starting on an exterior corner is usually preferable. They tend to be the most square. Each room layout is different so make your own call on where to start. Try to use as close to full sheets as possible. It sometimes works out that the best move you can make is to move off the wall 2' to 4' and hang a full 8' sheet from stud center to stud center.
Afterward, add the smaller piece in. Although it is possible to just start out with a smaller piece it can throw off the entire ceiling if it isn't perfect. Hanging a full sheet covers more area and sets the tone for the rest of the sheets to follow. Don't try this with less then 3 people. Someone has to be able to check each end to see if it's centered on the stud while two people are holding the sheet like Atlas holding the globe. This is a moot point if you're using a panel jack, of course.
Take two measurements if you are working on old house, or you suspect the room is out-of-square. Do not try to stay tight!!! This is nothing like a 2X4 that you can beat into place with a framing hammer if it's a tad tight. If you cut drywall too tight it will have to be shaved, and shaved, and shaved... until it fits right. I always allowed for a full quarter inch of play. Remember you are coming up the wall with 1/2".
Ideally, one person cuts the board while the other is preparing the work area. Make marks on the walls at the end of every ceiling joist and glue up. If you're worried about your 'eye' following the line of the stud once it's covered with the board chalk lines can be used. Just bear in mind that the lines are likely to be off, i.e use a light touch with the hammer until you find it.
Apply panel adhesive to every stud this sheet is about to cover except the ends. Aim for the center third of the area the sheet will cover and apply a healthy bead.
Providing there were no wall offsets to deal with and no electrical boxes to cut out the sheet itself is a simple straight cut using the T-square. Cutting board is easiest when it is leaning against a wall (slight lean only). Secure the bottom of the square with a toe and using a fresh utility blade score along the square. Now stand the board upright and snap the cut piece back and score the other side. Snap back towards the original position.
A word of caution here - score deeply enough even if it takes running the knife more than once. The smaller the piece being cut off, the more likely it is to break unevenly instead at the score point. In some cases the best solution is to score both sides before the snap.
Click here for further reading on installing drywall.
Next up - staggering joints, circles and angles.
Questions? Post in the comment area.
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